Ngemelis

One of the experiences I had yet to have in Palau was spending the night out in the Rock Islands. When LB and Dave organized a camping trip to Ngemelis Island, I quickly agreed to join them. Dave made the arrangements in getting a permit and coordinating the boat trip with Swing, the Palauan they lease their boat from. We would be traveling in a larger boat operated by Swing's friend Ronald. The Kregenows and I were accompanied by Swing and his son SJ, Paul the AG and his wife Karen, and Ronald's wife and son. We set off Saturday morning in slightly cloudy and rainy conditions, but not too bad considering it is the rainy season.

Ngemelis Island is the southwest edge of the Rock Islands. It is one of the long and skinny islands that is near Blue Corner and German Channel. If it weren't for the breaking waves and possibility of being swept out to sea, you could snorkel out to Blue Corner from Ngemelis. It is well known in Palau because it was one of the main islands occupied by the Ibedul, the traditional high chief of Palau. These days it is maintained by Koror State, but the Ibedul still has a private residence on part of the island.

When we arrived on Ngemelis we unloading our gear into the large shelter. There is no power or running water, but the shelter was large and could easily accommodate us. The first order of business was fishing, so those interested piled back into the boat and headed northeast to find a good spot to fish. We primarily did bottom fishing that involves a stationary line, either a hand line or on a rod, and bait. Swing and Ronald are very good bottom fisherman and caught a dozen smaller fish, mostly varieties of snapper. We also did a little casting and I had a few nibbles but no bites.

We returned to Ngemelis and I went snorkeling with Karen and Paul. Near where we were staying there was a small, shallow channel leading out to the open ocean filled with coral and fish. The current was against us so it took a fair amount of effort to swim in the channel. I zig zagged across the channel along the coral until I made it out into the opening. The water began to get deeper and rougher, so I turned around and let the current being me back to the beach. It was great fun floating along in the current watching the multitude of fish and coral go by. I saw a large whitetip shark patrolling the area. It was a beautiful snorkeling spot and fun experience.

After a little fried fish, we returned to the boat around sunset to go night bottom fishing. We returned to the same area we had been in the afternoon, but this time we had more people and more lines. Initially, it was slow going but after moving to a few spots we finally hit a good location and everyone began bringing up fish after fish. Most were snappers, but they were much bigger than earlier that day and were beautiful fish. I enjoyed laying back on the bow with my line in hand looking up at stars. When the clouds broke the sky was magnificent with countless stars and the large milky way plainly visible. It was a beautiful night for fishing.

After catching a large haul we returned to Ngemelis where the Palauans cleaned some of the fish and began cooking. They made fish soup and fried fish. The fish is not fried in any batter, but only with salt and a little oil. I ate some of both right of the grill and it was fantastic. With the hour growing late, I retired to my tent for a night's sleep with the slight sound a water lapping nearby.