Friday, March 09, 2007

Touring Babeldaob with the Parents



With my father finally settled, it was time to show the parents more of Palau. We loaded up my little car and headed off to tour Babeldaob. It was nothing new to me as it was my fourth time giving this tour in the last two months, but the sights do not disappoint and I still enjoy watching each visitor enjoy Babeldaob's natural wonders. With the road on the east side connecting to the compact road (still!) closed, we drove up the west side.

While almost all the road portion of the compact road project has been complete since I arrived, work has continued on a few sections of the road, the shoulders, and the trimmings like painting and signs. It is nearly complete and will be officially finished in April. The compact road is really a big deal here because previously the large majority of the land mass in the country was nearly unreachable by modern transportation. For example, to go to Ngardmau Falls, you had to take a boat from Koror to the village of Ngardmau, which is only accessible by boat at certain times due to the tides. Then it was a three hour hike upwards to reach the falls. With the compact road I can drive my little Mr. Bean car right up next to the trail and be at the falls in a half hour. The compact road is an amazingly ambitious and forward thinking project, it is the embodiment of if your build it people will come. For now, it is just a highway through the jungle. It is gorgeous in its natural unspoiled beauty. It is hilly without being mountainous and at the tops of the hills there are great views of the surrounding jungle covered hills. My parents enjoyed seeing the herons near the road fly away as we drove by swooping away with their large wings.

Eventually, we arrived at Ngardmau Falls. We selected our walking sticks and proceeded down the trail. My father was interested in the mining tracks along the trail. The Japanese mined bauxite in the hills near the falls and the mine car tracks are still there 75 years later. We took the requisite pictures en route to the river pools. The parents looked at me in disbelief when I told them we were getting into the water, but after I got in and under the small falls they followed. They were hesitant at first, but relaxed and really enjoyed it. Leaving the pools, they elected to take the muddy path, which wasn't too muddy because it has not rained much lately. We reached the falls and I set up the tripod to take some pictures. After the photo session, the parents made their way over to the base of the falls. Mom only slipped on the rocks a few times. They went up and under the falls and experienced that for a while. With the arrival of other tour groups, we started back up the trail. This time they wanted to do the river trail, so we walked up the river. That trail has a striking resemblance to the Jungle Cruise at Disney, only this is real life (and no hippos). We climbed up the three hills stopping for short breaks at the conveniently placed benches. We successfully made it back to the car with the parents a little tired but happy.

After driving up around the north end of the island our next stop was the Capitol. We ate our picnic lunch at the large wood picnic tables on the grounds of the Capitol with the stunning view looking out over the water. After lunch, I took the parents inside for a tour of the judiciary building. I showed them my other office and then took them upstairs to show them the courtrooms. Justice Salii had just finished a trial and was in her office so I introduced her to my parents. We chatted a bit before we left to check out the rest of the building. We also went next door and into the rotunda of the OEK. We piled back into the car and drove down the road into the village of Melekeok.

We drove through the seaside hamlet and I pointed out a few notable buildings. I parked the car at the new state government building that sits at the entrance of the Melekeok Bai. Compared to Ngardmau Falls, the hike up to the Bai is short so I tell my guests it is a short hike. About halfway up the begin to grumble about it not being so short. By then it is too late to turn around. We reached the Bai and snapped some pictures as we walked around it looking at the carvings. It is secluded spot and there never is anyone else around. We returned to the state building and Mom wanted to walk out the Melekeok dock. At the end we sat and watched the waves roll in and break. It was a good show because it was windy. Mom really enjoyed the dock, it was a highlight for her. Our tour was at an end, so we drove back to Koror up and around the compact road.

Back in Koror, I took Mom home to rest and Dad accompanied me to ultimate frisbee, although he just watched from the stands. For dinner we met the Kregenows at Krämer's. It is a small town and there are many places I go where I know people. Krämer's is one of those places and when I walk in the staff greets me by name. My parents were either impressed that I was well known or shocked I was known by name at a bar. Not sure which, but lets go with the former rather than the latter. We had a fun meal and lively conversation. Mom loved the tuna melt and Dad really enjoyed the local Red Rooster beer. It was a fun evening and a great finish to an adventurous day.

The next day was a recovery day for my parents. They met me for lunch at Rock Island Cafe. Then we made a quick stop at Ben Franklin, the all-purpose store in Palau. My mom liked seeing the touristy stuff jammed into the same store as everyday household items. The parents then went to PPR for the afternoon and relaxed. For dinner we went to the Penthouse Hotel. I made Dad get the whole parrotfish and he did a good eating it off the bone. Mom opted for just the grilled wahoo and absolutely loved it and the sauce. We returned home and watched the Oscars on tape delay. It wasn't shown live and the rebroadcast was two days later so we already knew who won. Still it was nice slice of home.

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